Sunday, October 21, 2007

Topgok Valley/Hohoe Village









Today we headed into the Eastern Namsan mountains of Gyeongju for a memorable visit to see the Buddhist images at Topgok Valley. There we passed a small stream side hermitage and saw up ahead of us these enormous stone boulders that have these fantastic relief images, the greatest collection in Korea.

For lunch we ate jjimdak, a spicy mixture of chicken with transparent noodles, potatoes and other vegetables
Then it was onwards to Andong, Korea and a visit to the Booyongdae Cliff. After another strenuous but delightful climb up a steep mountain we saw the most beautiful view of the Andong Hahoe village. This traditional Korean village, called the "spinning river village" in Korea, is situated along a bend in the Nakdonggang river with mountains behind and cliffs across a soft sand plain. The houses are all built in the traditional style and the residents still live a traditional lifestyle aided by government support. We spent some time visiting this village and I participated with three other members of our group in a traditional Korean tea ceremony. I loved the bucolic beauty of the mud-wall huts nestled in shadow of the mountains. I wondered, as I walked along the river, how life must have been for the people of this village for some 600 years ago. I marveled at the beautiful field of lotus and spent some time looking upon their beauty.
We also enjoyed a Hahoe Mask Dance Drama, called Hahoe Pyolshin-gut T’al-Nori. This is Korea’s most traditional folk play. The drama contains both shaman rituals and popular entertainment and contains many allegorical characters each representing a different social class. The village ritual was intended to please the local gods and Conflicts among these classes were satirized and to relieve social tensions among the families in the village.

After checking into our hotel in Danyang we enjoyed a meal of pork with lots of lovely panchan, including of course kimchi, pickeld or fermented vegetables. We finished our meal this time with a bowl rice with mixed vegetables. Koreans use metal chopsticks, spoons and bowls when they eat. This tradition goes back hundreds of years, during the Chosum dynasty, when bronze chopsticks became associated with richness. Today Koreans use stainless steal instead of bronze. Only in the Buddhist monasteries due they still use wooden chopsticks.

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